Hi we just bought a Chevy Equinox and I am thinking of having a hitch installed so we can use it for a bike rack. Anyone done this? Gearhead gave me a quite of $450 to install.

Thanks

$450? Does that include the hitch, rack . . . and bikes?

Try Suburban Trailer in Villa Park . . .

. . . or Art's R.V. on North Avenue.

I've also heard good comments on Suburban.

Plus maintenance guy at the dealership we bought our car at actually recommended them when I choked at the dealer $.

The most expensive hitch that you can possibly justify buying for your stated purpose is $125-150 . . . retail. Figure 1.5 hours labor to put it on. Best guess . . . should cost about $300. Sub Trailer has been around since I was a kid. They are at St. Charles and Villa. They know what they are doing.

thanks I will give them a call. The $450 did not include the bike rack.

Understood. Just the hitch and the install. Rack is another $250 or so.

Starting to sound like a park district project.

Always go for the 2" type as opposed to the smaller hitch size. More expensive, but a hitch style bike rack will be more secure and won't move shift and move as much as you go over bumps. It will also last longer since the smaller 1 1/4" has much less surface area.

Also pop for a locking option on the rack (to lock it to the car). And, get a cable long enough to go through all the bikes and be able to secure through the bottom of the rack. Have the store show you how you might accomplish that. If the rack folds down when there's no bikes, even better.

And this is important... when you're not going to use the rack for several weeks, remove it from the car. I can't tell you how many customers left their rack in the hitch 24/7/365 and had them rust firm to the hitch. Even if it is rust-proofed somehow - always remove the rack when you can.

Shop around for quotes for hitches. The prices quoted can vary hugely.

Aren't most hitch bike racks 1.25" . . .and capable of holding/hauling 4,000 pounds?

The majority are 1 1/4", yes. That's because most people only want to pay about $69.95 for an ultra-cheapo crappy bike rack. The smaller 1 1/4" car hitches also cost less. And that combo makes for a barely workable setup. Flimsy, shakey-shakey.

Many smaller cars, because of their limited towing horsepower, and more due to reduced brake load capacities, can only be fitted with the 1 1/4" types. The trailer industry shouldn't mount a 2" hitch to a tiny car due to the liability they would expose themselves to if the customer decides to tow a 48' yacht.

SUV's, and such, should all be able to deal with the 2-inchers. And like I already mentioned above, the additional surface area of those just makes for a sturdier rig. One can always tell the installer not to install the electrical package for full towing, and thus knock some of the expense out (for either hitch size). When I asked for "no electric," it saved me about a benjamin for each of my 3 installs for my personal and business vehicles. Yes, you have to ask or they'll just install (and quote) the electric part. Some will ask - not all do.

The better hitch bike racks have the following upgraded features:

* Sturdier construction (thicker).

* Tighter fitting mount to hitch (either size) for less rack shake.

* Allows for locking to hitch (optional lock pin or fitting extra, usually).

* Will make locking bikes to rack possible or easier.

* Will fold down, or move sideways via a hinge to allow rear vehicle access with the bikes mounted.

* Will hold 2, 3, 4 or maybe 5 bikes with ease.

All racks and hitches will rust. Make sure you grease the hitch access area every now and then, and don't leave the rack installed long-term. Thule, IMO, makes the best racks for hitch mounting.

Oh, and the back of the vehicle bike racks that sit on the window/bumper area and are held down with straps? Skip them if you can, but if cost is an issue, or you don't mind the low security of strap-on racks, or the low weight carrying capacity, then they might be an option for some cyclists.

Whichever way you go, buy a handful of 24" bungee cords to help secure down bike movement, wheels spinning from the wind, etc. Cover the seats with plastic bags and tie those down, and remove any bike accessories (computers, bottles, bags, etc.) so those aren't blown off or are ruined by the rain at 70mph.